Our friend Leslie, who was largely responsible for us going to Thailand last fall, spent a month in an “elephant camp” as an apprentice Mahout. He spoke with reverence of these lumbering, majestic and often challenging animals, of riding them up a mountain to a stream for their morning bathing ritual, of feeding them their 300 pounds of foliage a day which they required, of cleaning up after them, of sleeping near them in case they had a bad dream in the night. He talked of their intelligence and of how the younger ones are just like looking after teenagers.
We, his “stateside” friends, began to wonder if we would ever see him again, his fascination with the elephants and the culture of the Mahouts seemed so strong. But then he mentioned that he is 65 and it is not so easy climbing up and down off their 10 foot high backs, even though they are taught to lift a leg to help. Leslie would really like to move to the forest of northern Thailand and live in a little cabin in the woods, and be a “part-time Mahout.” We are all continuing to remind him of what it must be like to be an aging part-time Mahout.
Leslie made a strong pitch for us to include the Maesa Elephant Camp on our tour itinerary when were on the way from Chang Rai to Chang Mai in the north of Thailand. We are glad we took his advice. As it worked out, our day at the camp was scheduled the day before we arrived in Chang Mai. Leslie had just completed his month at a different elephant camp and was to meet us at our hotel so we could debrief and share stories of our trip thus far.
We arrived at Maesa Elephant Camp just as the Mahouts were taking the elephants, about twenty of them, to the river to bathe. We tourists stood on a bridge to watch and buy bananas to give the elephants when they reached out their trunks as they were being splashed by the Mahouts. The elephants, young and old, seemed to delight in rolling in the rushing waters and being rubbed down by their Mahouts. A Mahout literally lives with his elephant, and many of them sleep next to their charges, or nearby them, every night. One Mahout to one elephant, and these animals live almost as long as humans.
Following this opening ceremony was the “show.” A parade of elephants with Mahouts mounted on their shoulders carrying a big welcome sign, showing us how their Mahouts get up and down, bowing, kicking soccer balls into a net, playing a dart game with one of the men from our group, one giving his Mahout a “massage,” and the grand finale, demonstrating their artistic abilities. These are the elephants who paint watercolors. When Linda and I had seen that TV program on the “painting elephants” a few years ago, we had some questions and a little skepticism, and we were not alone. I think 60 Minutes did a segment on them. We watched as two of the elephants painted. The Mahout would dip the brush in the color for them and then one painted a flower arrangement and the other a cartoon picture of . . . . an elephant!
We still are not quite sure how they are trained for this, but we are now believers!
At the end of the show we got up close and personal with elephants. We took a long walk to see the newest addition, a one-month old baby with his mother. Along the way we were enticed by two young ones to sit on their knees while being patted and kissed, which was a surprise.
We learned a little about elephants. They were mainly employed as loggers in the heyday of the teakwood industry, dragging huge fallen trees out of the mountain forests. Now that the teak cutting has been outlawed, they are unemployed. Three thousand of them are still in the wild and the other 3000 still in Thailand are in these private camps, highly regulated by the government, and supported by private donations. The royal family supports many of these efforts to hold on to the environmental and cultural values of their country. We loved our time in this beautiful land. We loved our day touching elephants. We do not plan to move to the forest and become part-time Mahouts.
Milan Hamilton
January 24, 2014